The Philadelphia Inquirer’s food critic Craig Laban reviewed Ambler’s Sushi Hatsu this week. The review starts with a question about Ambler, which Laban answers himself. From the Inquirer:

Is Ambler ready for torched bluefin tuna cheeks, monkfish liver, and tempura-fried cod milt?

I wouldn’t underestimate this surging suburb’s appetite to support an ambitious Japanese restaurant with next-level tasting menus. The downtown strip of East Butler Avenue already thrums with a diverse menu of dining options, from Spanish (Vida and Comida) to BBQ (the Lucky Well), a modern American wine bar restaurant (Dettera) and an intriguingly tasty new Vietnamese grill (Melody’s). There are multiple breweries here! Deep-pocket dining budgets and global tastes, this Montgomery County borough has.

Laban then focused on the dishes he tried at the restaurant:

A live scallop was fanned into candy-sweet ivory discs atop its shell with golden cubes of floral plum wine jelly and a salty fingerling lime. A ponzu-splashed round of creamy ankimo (monkfish liver, the coveted liverwurst of the sea) was marbleized with grated radish tinted orange with chili oil. A trio of Spanish bluefin parts — a meaty nugget of roasted cheek with yuzu-pepper, wasabi-dabbed o-toro belly, and a fat-speckled slice of pink collar lavished with shaved French truffles — delivered an emphatic primer in tuna luxury.

Laban gives the restaurant two bells, which is the equivalent to “very good.” Read the full review here.